Eyes are often considered the focal point of any makeup look, and understanding how to enhance your unique eye shape can transform your entire appearance. As a professional visagiste, one of the most valuable skills is the ability to identify different eye shapes and apply techniques that complement each client's natural features.
In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore how to identify your eye shape and the most flattering makeup techniques for each type. Remember that while these guidelines provide a starting point, makeup is ultimately about personal expression—feel free to adapt these techniques to suit your individual style and preferences.
Identifying Your Eye Shape
Before diving into specific techniques, let's first understand how to determine your eye shape. Look straight into a mirror with a relaxed expression and observe the following characteristics:
- Is your crease visible when your eyes are open?
- Can you see the entire iris, or is part of it covered by your upper or lower lid?
- Do the outer corners of your eyes turn upward, downward, or remain neutral?
- Is there visible lid space between your lashes and crease?
- Are your eyes set wide apart or close together?
Based on your observations, you can identify which of the following eye shapes most closely resembles yours.
Almond Eyes
Almond eyes are considered the "standard" in makeup tutorials, characterized by a visible crease and eyes that taper slightly at both corners, resembling the shape of an almond.
Characteristics:
- Visible crease when eyes are open
- Iris is partially covered by the upper lid
- Eyes taper slightly at both inner and outer corners
Makeup Techniques:
Almond eyes are versatile and can carry most eyeshadow techniques effectively. To enhance this naturally balanced shape:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Apply medium tones across the lid, darker shades in the outer corner in a V-shape, and highlight the inner corner and brow bone.
- Eyeliner: Thin to medium line along the upper lash line, slightly thickening toward the outer corner. Wing can be subtle to dramatic based on preference.
- Mascara: Focus on both upper and lower lashes for balanced definition.
Professional Tip: For a quick enhancement, apply a medium-toned shadow in the crease and blend outward toward the temple in a windshield-wiper motion.
Round Eyes
Round eyes appear circular with prominent lid space and are often described as looking bright and youthful.
Characteristics:
- Full, circular appearance
- Visible lid space when eyes are open
- Iris is fully visible, not covered by upper or lower lids
- Little to no tapering at the corners
Makeup Techniques:
For round eyes, techniques often focus on creating the illusion of elongation:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Apply darker shades to the outer third of the lid and blend outward and upward toward the end of the eyebrow. Keep the center of the lid lighter to create depth.
- Eyeliner: Start thin at the inner corner and gradually thicken toward the outer corner, extending slightly beyond the eye in an upward flick.
- Mascara: Focus on the outer lashes, applying multiple coats for definition. Apply a lighter coat to inner lashes.
Professional Tip: Avoid applying dark shadows or liner all the way around the eye, as this can emphasize roundness. Instead, concentrate color on the outer corners to create elongation.
Hooded Eyes
Hooded eyes have minimal visible lid space when open due to skin folding down from the brow bone. This eye shape is common with age but can also be genetic.
Characteristics:
- Limited or no visible lid space when eyes are open
- Crease appears to be recessed or hidden
- Lid may appear to disappear under a fold of skin when eyes are open
Makeup Techniques:
For hooded eyes, the goal is often to create the illusion of more lid space and prevent smudging:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Apply with eyes open to ensure placement is visible. Create a "floating crease" by applying darker shadow slightly above the natural crease where it will be visible.
- Eyeliner: Use thin, smudge-proof liner that stays close to the lash line. Consider "tightlining" (applying liner between lashes) to define eyes without taking up lid space.
- Mascara: Curl lashes thoroughly and use lengthening mascara to open up the eyes.
Professional Tip: Use primer specifically formulated for oily lids to prevent transfer of product onto the hood. Matte eyeshadows tend to work better than shimmers for defining the crease area.
Monolid Eyes
Monolid eyes have little to no visible crease, creating a flat plane from the lash line to the brow bone.
Characteristics:
- No visible crease or fold
- Smooth, continuous surface from lash line to brow
- Often accompanied by an epicanthic fold (skin fold of the upper eyelid covering the inner corner)
Makeup Techniques:
For monolids, techniques focus on creating dimension and emphasizing the natural beauty of this eye shape:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Use a gradient technique, applying darker colors near the lash line and gradually blending to lighter shades toward the brow. Create dimension by placing a darker shade in the outer corner and blending inward.
- Eyeliner: Thick, winged liner can be particularly flattering. Consider starting the wing from the center of the lid rather than the outer corner for a lifting effect.
- Mascara: Curl lashes thoroughly before applying mascara. Consider individual false lashes at the outer corners for special occasions.
Professional Tip: Shimmer and glitter shadows can create beautiful dimension on monolids. Apply darker matte shades as a base, then layer shimmer on the center of the lid for a multi-dimensional effect.
Downturned Eyes
Downturned eyes have an outer corner that tilts slightly downward, creating a gentle, approachable appearance.
Characteristics:
- Outer corners angle downward
- Can create a slight drooping appearance at the outer edges
Makeup Techniques:
For downturned eyes, techniques often focus on creating a lifting effect at the outer corners:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Apply darker shades at the outer corner in an upward, diagonal direction (toward the end of the eyebrow). Keep the darkest color above the natural downturn.
- Eyeliner: Create a thin line that thickens toward the outer corner, with a wing that angles upward to counteract the downward tilt.
- Mascara: Focus on the center and outer lashes, curling them upward for a lifting effect.
Professional Tip: Avoid applying dark shadow or liner below the lower lash line at the outer corner, as this can emphasize the downward appearance. Instead, apply lighter colors on the lower lash line.
Upturned Eyes
Upturned eyes have a natural lift at the outer corners, creating a slightly cat-like appearance.
Characteristics:
- Outer corners tilt upward
- Lower lid appears longer than the upper lid at the outer corner
Makeup Techniques:
For upturned eyes, techniques can either enhance the natural lift or balance it, depending on preference:
- Eyeshadow Placement: To enhance the upturn, apply darker shades at the outer corner and blend upward. For a more balanced look, concentrate color along the upper lash line.
- Eyeliner: Follow the natural upward tilt for a dramatic cat-eye, or keep the line straight for a more subtle effect.
- Mascara: Apply evenly to all lashes for a balanced look.
Professional Tip: Upturned eyes can carry dramatic cat-eye looks particularly well. For special occasions, consider extending liner in a more pronounced wing to enhance the natural upturn.
Deep-Set Eyes
Deep-set eyes appear to be set farther back in the eye socket, with a prominent brow bone that casts a slight shadow.
Characteristics:
- Eyes appear recessed under the brow bone
- Pronounced crease that may create shadow
- Brow bone appears more prominent
Makeup Techniques:
For deep-set eyes, techniques focus on bringing the eyes forward and lightening shadows:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Use light, reflective shades on the lid to bring the eyes forward. Apply medium tones in the crease, but avoid very dark shades that can make eyes appear more recessed.
- Eyeliner: Keep liner thin and close to the lash line to avoid closing the eye further. Consider using light-colored liner on the waterline to brighten.
- Mascara: Focus on curling lashes upward to open the eye area.
Professional Tip: Highlight the inner corner and center of the lid with a reflective shade to catch light and bring eyes forward.
Close-Set Eyes
Close-set eyes have less space between them than the width of one eye.
Characteristics:
- Less than one eye-width of space between the eyes
Makeup Techniques:
For close-set eyes, techniques focus on creating the illusion of more space between the eyes:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Apply lighter shades to the inner third of the lid and darker shades to the outer two-thirds. Highlight the inner corner generously.
- Eyeliner: Start liner from the center of the lid rather than the inner corner, and extend it outward. Avoid dark liner on the inner corner.
- Mascara: Focus on the outer lashes for emphasis away from the center of the face.
Professional Tip: Highlighting the inner corner with a light, reflective shade creates the illusion of more space between the eyes.
Wide-Set Eyes
Wide-set eyes have more space between them than the width of one eye.
Characteristics:
- More than one eye-width of space between the eyes
Makeup Techniques:
For wide-set eyes, techniques focus on visually bringing the eyes closer together:
- Eyeshadow Placement: Apply darker shades to the inner corners and lighter shades to the outer corners.
- Eyeliner: Extend liner toward the inner corners, and consider lining the entire waterline for a defining effect.
- Mascara: Focus on the inner lashes to create emphasis toward the center of the face.
Professional Tip: Creating a smoky effect at the inner corner can help visually reduce the space between wide-set eyes.
Combining Eye Shapes
Many people have eyes that combine several characteristics—for example, almond-shaped eyes that are also slightly hooded, or round eyes that are deep-set. In these cases, combine techniques from each relevant category, prioritizing the most prominent features.
Universal Tips for All Eye Shapes
While specific techniques vary by eye shape, these universal principles apply to enhancing all eyes:
- Proper Tools: Invest in quality brushes designed for eye makeup. A basic set should include a flat shader brush, a blending brush, and a detail brush.
- Blending is Essential: Regardless of eye shape, thorough blending creates professional-looking results. Harsh lines rarely flatter any eye shape.
- Eye Primer: Use primer designed for eyeshadow to improve color payoff and longevity.
- Frame with Brows: Well-groomed eyebrows frame the eyes and enhance any makeup look.
- Consider Eye Color: While eye shape dictates placement techniques, eye color can guide color selection. Complementary colors (opposite on the color wheel) make eye colors pop.
Remember that these guidelines are starting points, not rigid rules. Makeup is an art form, and personal expression should always take precedence over strict adherence to "rules." Experiment with different techniques to discover what makes you feel most confident and beautiful.
With practice and an understanding of your unique eye shape, you can create makeup looks that enhance your natural features and express your personal style.
